I happened to watch 2 (fantasy) sangeuks quite concurrently at the end of 2020 and first quarter of 2021, where female royalty of the Joseon dynasties were featured rather prominently. That drew my attention (which would otherwise not have happened as I don't usually watch sangeuks consecutively) to the jewellery that the queens and dowagers wear on their heads. More specifically, the binyeos.
So I scoured the internet for photos of the queens and dowagers of the sangeuks I've watched. I vaguely remembered that the large hairpins the queens and dowagers wore were different for every sanguek. I put that down to different production teams and probably the budget they had for these accessories. I've never seen an actual set of the hair accessories that Joseon queens and dowagers wear, and I think I won't in the near future unless leisure travel across borders is once again allowed, as the museums I've visited outside Korea don't seem to have these displayed in their collections.
Also learnt from some blogs I read (the Talking Cupboard, mystickorea, and feedingmyprocrastination) that a binyeo is a generic term for a hairpin. More specifically, the stick used to hold the bun at the nape is called a Jam while the more decorative one that is usually U-shaped is called a Chae. It appears that only the queen can wear the dragon-shaped yong jam. Thus an implication is often assumed of concubines who slyly got themselves yong jams and wear them secretly. The queen could of course choose to wear a phoenix-shaped bong jam too.
There were 2 queens in the Moon embracing the Sun, and both queens wore different Jams. I can't quite see whether the queen on the left wears a yong jam or a bong jam, but the queen on the right is wearing a bong jam.
The queens in the Masquerade and the Crowned Clown both wore the yong jams, albeit with different depictions of the dragons. Strangely, the queen in the Masquerade is not wearing the accessory on top of her head (haven't found out what it is named yet). Her outfit also resembles a kimono more than that of a Joseon queen's dangui. Her yong jam is also unusually long. The yong jam of the queen in the Crowned Clown is the simplest and plainest yong jam I've seen from the sangeuks, and I wonder if the production team meant any interpretation of her frugality or personality from her accessories.
Because of the queens are almost never shown from their backs, sometimes it's a guess from screen captures what jam the queen is wearing, like this queen from Love in the Moonlight.
I suppose the production team of Queen Cheorin had a larger budget for the queen's accessories, as I noticed that the queen doesn't wear the same accessories in many scenes. The queen is seen wearing 2 different bo jams. Come to think of it, I didn't recall seeing the queen in a yong jam.
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